Most door thresholds fasten directly to the substrate below the door and cannot be adjusted. An adjustable threshold has a bar in it that adjusts to the bottom of the door.
This is especially useful if the floor is out of level or the door is crooked.
Pocket door guides are small plastic retainers that are installed at the bottom of the door jamb. As the door closes the guides keep the door going straight. Without the guides you may have difficulty getting the door to latch.
Pocket doors are installed differently than most other doors. Instead of being attached at the side, they are hung from the top. Most pocket doors have two hangers and two sets of rollers at the top of the door.
The rollers allow the door to follow a metal track when the door opens and closes. The rollers keep the door aligned at the top.
The bottom of the door is another matter. There is nothing that keeps the bottom of the door in place, other than the pocket itself. Pocket door guides keep the door centered in the pocket.
Due to the design of pocket door latches there is a tendency to push the door away as it is being closed. This adds to the problem. For the latch to work the door needs to go in between the two stops at the strike side of the door.
For the guides to work properly, they need to be set so that they hold the door snugly in the center. However, they should not rub or created friction on the door.
Check the guides at the bottom of the door frame. Is there a gap between the door and the guide? Can you move the door back and forth between the two guides? If so, you need to adjust the guides.
If the guides are loose, you may need to tighten them or replace the screws with a slightly larger one.
Pocket door guides have a slot in them that allows for adjustment. Loosen the screw a turn or two until the guide can be moved. Move the guide until it is within the thickness of a heavy sheet of paper away from the door. Make sure that the door is in the center of the pocket. Use a tape measure to check the distance from the edge of the door jamb.
Adjust both guides so that the door is held in place without binding. Move the door back and forth to make sure there is no friction.
It could be that you do not have any guides installed on your pocket door. Or, they may be worn or damaged. This is not a problem, they are easy to install.
Obtain a new set of pocket door guides at a home supply store or order them on the internet. They should only cost a couple of dollars.
Locate them so that they lightly touch the door when it is centered in the opening. Mark the location for the screw in the center of the slot. This will give you some adjustment room when the guide is installed.
Install the guides on both sides of the door, close too the bottom of the door (not the bottom of the frame). Leave a the thickness of a thick sheet of paper between the guide and the door, so that it will open freely.
Once you have installed your guides you will want to make sure that your pocket door is properly adjusted. See the article 'Adjusting Pocket Doors' for information and instructions.
Hopefully, you have been able to solve your issue with your pocket door. Adjusting the guides is not that hard and you should have been able to do it in a few minutes.
Installing are replacing the guides is not hard either. Once you located new ones the repair should have been simple.
When a pocket door is off the track, you will have difficulty opening and closing it. Depending on the weight of the door, it may be very difficult to move. To fix this problem the door will need to be re-attached to the hanger. The method will vary depending on which hanger has let go.
Not sure if this is your problem? See the article on 'Fixing and Troubleshooting Pocket Doors' for a complete listing of all the problems and the solutions for them.
Check the edge of the door that is by the door jamb. Is there still a gap between the corner of the door and the floor? Yes, then it is the back hanger that has released. If the door is on the floor at the jamb, it is the front hanger that has let go.
The first thing you need to do is determine where the hanger is. If it is visible hanging from the guide track in the door opening, your job is much easier. Pull the hanger over into the center of the door opening.
The hanger may be inside of the pocket. You will need to get a flashlight to try and locate it. Look in the narrow space above the door that goes back into the pocket. The hanger will look like a bolt hanging down below the track.
Try to use a wire, screwdriver or something else to slide the hanger out into the door opening. Try not to push it any farther back into the pocket. It may take a little bit of patience. A wire with a hook on it is probably your best bet.
If the hanger is too far back in the opening to reach you will have to go to plan "b". Pick up the front edge of the door off the floor a little so it does not scrape. Slide the door as far as you can into the opening. The back roller and hanger will push the front one out to where you can reach it. Do this carefully, you do not want to pop the back hanger off.
When you have the front door hanger in the opening, you are ready to put the pocket door on the track.
When the back pocket door hanger is off the track, it is a bit more of a problem. You are going to have to remove the pocket door to get the hanger out where you can work on it.
Moving the door when the back side is sliding on the ground is a little difficult. Try holding your foot against the bottom of the door and pull gently on the top of the door to lift the back side. Work the door slowly into the opening in this manner.
Bring the door to within a few inches of the strike side jamb. You may want some help at this point. Someone to hold the door while you release the retention clip on the door hanger. See the article 'Removing a Pocket Door' for more information on taking the door off.
After the door is taken out and leaned against the wall, you will have to locate the pocket door hanger. A broom handle works well for coaxing the hanger out of the pocket.
Use a flashlight so that you can see what you are doing. With the broom handle, slide the roller carriage out into the door opening.
When you go put the door back on the track, you want to get the hanger on the top of the door aligned with the bolt and wheel assembly inside of the track. Putting a pocket door back on the hangers has an order to it like most other things. There are two sides to the door, the strike side (where the lock is) and the pocket side. With a pocket door you want to attach the hanger that is closest to the pocket side of the door.
Slide the pocket side hanger to where it is about six to eight inches from the edge of the jamb. You will need to angle the door, so that the strike side is out of the opening. You cannot get the door into the opening until the back hanger is installed. It is a good idea to have some help at this point.
There are basically two types of retention clips. One kind allows the hanger to slide sideways onto the hanger bolt. This type is more prone to coming off. The other type has the hanger going straight up onto the bolt. This type may require that you hold the retention spring open while lifting the door. You definitely want help with this style.
Make sure the retention clip is released and attach the clip to the back hanger. At this point you can start to slide the door into the pocket. You will have to pick up on the front side so that it does not drag on the floor. Be careful and adjust the angle of the door until it is inside the opening with the front edge four to six inches away from the strike side jamb.
After the back hanger is in place slide the door part way into the pocket. Repeat the process with the front hanger. Line up the front roller assembly with the hanger on the door. Make sure the retention clip is released and attach the front hanger.
Make sure the retention clips are engaged before you start to use the door. Otherwise, it will come off the track again.
Having your pocket door come off the track can be a little irritating. It is best to have help when you are trying to install or remove a pocket door.
Getting the roller carriages out of the pocket may have been the hardest part of this process. Hopefully, you were able to get your pocket door working properly again.
Knowing how to remove a pocket door can be a useful skill. You may need to take the door down to paint or you want to replace the hardware for the pocket door. Certain adjustments to the door may also require that you remove it.
If this is not your problem, you want to see the article 'Troubleshooting Pocket Doors' for other pocket door topics.
Pocket doors are installed differently than conventional doors. A regular door has hinges on the side that have pins in them. All you have to do is remove the pins and the the door will come off.
A pocket door is similar, except that it is supported by hangers at the top of the door.
The pocket door hangers are attached to rollers that glide along a track that allows the door to slide back and forth. The jambs on each end of the door keep you from rolling it out the end.
The hangers are designed with a retention clip that holds the door hanging clip onto the bolt for the rollers. Unfortunately, every manufacturer uses a different type of hanger and clip. You will have to determine where the release for the clip is before you try and remove the door.
You may need a screwdriver to push the release lever. Some of the clips require that you hold them open until the door is take off the hanger.
Make sure you have some help before you attempt to remove the door. The door is probably not too heavy unless it is a solid core door. Even a hollow core door can be a little awkward to handle. Just having someone to steady it will help a lot.
To remove the door you want to slide it until it is within three or four inches of being closed. Even when the door is closed, part of the door is still inside the pocket, making it seemingly impossible to remove the door.
With the door almost closed have someone hold the edge of the door while you release the clip that is closest to the strike side of the door. Once the clip is released carefully set the door down.
Pick the door up at the edge and slide it as far toward the strike as you can. Then pull the door toward you until the edge of the door is past the jamb. With the door at an angle, you can pull it completely out of the pocket.
Have someone hold the door and release the second clip. Carefully remove the door and lean it against the wall. That is all there is to it.
You put the door back on in reverse order of the way you took it down.
Similar to removing the door, it is a bit of a trick to get the door back on. See the article 'Replacing a Pocket Door' for instructions on what to do.
Hopefully you were able to get your pocket door removed without too much difficulty. This job is not too hard, especially if you have handled doors in the past.
This article is about how to install a pocket door. It is not common to install a pocket door in an existing home, they require framing in the walls to make them work.
Installing a pocket door frame can only be done when you are remodeling or during new construction. The wall needs to be open at the door opening and at the pocket location.
In addition, you cannot have electrical, plumbing or heating lines at this location. If there are any at this location, they will need to be moved or eliminated.
The following is an overview of the steps involved in installing a pocket door frame.
A pocket door can be any standard door size. This statement is made with the understanding that the pocket door hardware must allow for the door size used.
There are several complete pocket door kits that allow for all of the door sizes between 2' 0" and 3' 0". The adjustment to the sizes is made by cutting the top head rail and track. Most of the time, pocket doors are used in rooms that people go in and out of. Therefore, it is unlikely that you will have a pocket door that is less than 2' 0".
Some common pocket door sizes are:
Something to keep in mind is that you need the the same amount of room inside of the wall as the door size. Things such as wiring and plumbing cannot be installed in the area where the pocket goes.
The first requirement for a pocket door is a rough opening in the wall the will allow for a pocket door. This opening is usually slightly more than twice the width of the door with allowances made for jamb material. When the wall is being built the layout of the wall will need to be coordinated with the instructions in the pocket door kit.
A header needs to be installed that will support the pocket door track. Different kits and pocket door hardware have different height requirements. Consult the instructions for the correct framing height.
The head rail in a kit is made up of the pocket door track and some support framing. The support framing provides a place to fasten the vertical framing members. The jamb material for the head of the door is also provided.
The head rail assembly will fasten to the frame work on each end via a provided clip. Check the instructions that were provided with the kit for locating the rail. Usually, the head rail is not fastened to the header. This is done so that any sagging in the header will not be transferred to the door framing.
Most pocket door kits use four or six vertical framing members. These are usually metal sleeves with wood inserts. The wood inserts allow for the fastening of the drywall.
The framing members are attached to the floor via metal clips. The clips will need to be placed at the correct locations per the instructions. At the top the framing members are screwed to the head rail at the prescribed framing member.
After the framing is installed the remaining work is done after the drywall is installed and the painting is done. The jambs would be the next step.
Pocket door jambs are similar to the jambs on a regular door with one key difference. The jambs at the head and pocket side of the door are split. This provides an area for the door to slide back and forth.
The jamb at the head of the door is usually provided with the head rail. this provides a guide for installing the other jamb members. The jambs need to be installed and shimmed to the proper location in relationship to the pocket door.
After the jambs are installed the trim can be put in place. The only difference between pocket door trim an normal trim is the fasteners. On the head and pocket side of the door the fasteners cannot be longer that the combination of the framing members, drywall and trim. A longer fastener will protrude inside the pocket and damage the door.
Angling the nails can help, but extreme caution should be used. You only have about 1 1/2" to work with to fasten the trim. Gluing can minimize the number of fasteners needed.
There are two hangers or brackets that need to be installed on the top of the door. They are installed with screws and should be centered on the top of the door. The hangers should be located about four inches from each end of the top of the door.
Install the hanger at the back of the door first (the portion of the door that goes into the pocket). Release the retention spring and attach the door to the hanger. After that, align the front hanger with the front roller and attach it to the bolt on the roller.
Replacing a locks on a pocket door should not have taken you too long, once you found a replacement. We hope this article helped to get your pocket door lock installed correctly.